Rolex watches

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ROLEX REFERENCE  NUMBERS & CALIBERS


We receive many different Rolex watches for service. Most of the time our customers have no idea what the movement of their Rolex watch looks like and many time they don't know what Ref. Number their movement is. This is especially true of the older vintage Rolex watches commonly referred to as "Bubble Back."  The "Bubble Back" term originated when Rolex produced watches with the Auto Wind mechanism. These watches were rather thick and the backs were very round and bubble shaped. Hence the term "Bubble Back".

We will start showing photographs of the different movements.  We will also have a listing of the different Ref. Numbers and the dates they were produced.  You will note that most watch companies refer to their movements by a caliber number. This is actually the model number of the movement.  Rolex did not use the caliber reference system, but used their own Ref. Numbers.  Ref. is short for reference.  A typical Rolex number would be as follows. Ref. 720.



     These two photographs show the typical Rolex Movement from the 1940's and the position of the auto wind mechanism.  The auto wind mechanism on the left, fits over the movement on the right.  This setup was used on many different Ref. Numbers.
 

Fake Rolex
"High Grade" really does mean "Swiss"



FauxLex #2, the best fake yet

 
 But before we go on, a warning...

WARNING: Numerous fake vendors on the web have already stolen these images in an effort to rip people off over the internet. This web page is for information only. I am a software developer, not a watch dealer. I don't sell watches and I don't endorse dealers.

The internet dealers are selling "Swiss" submariners for up to 800 US$ and even higher - This is BS! The Swiss movement is about 50 $ wholesale and a stainless case, bracelet, and other parts don't cost more than another 100 $ to manufacture, period. Buying these things on the internet is a great way to waste money.

Please see these notes...
 





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Realism & Quality
I had to weed through bad fakes for years before finally coming to this watch. While many fakes are limited to only being imitations of something else, this is a cool watch on its own. It's not just a fake. It is, by itself, a nice, solid chunk of Swiss machinery. The quality sets it in the same class as Rolex's Tudor or some of the other mid-level Swiss sports watches.
 


This thing could fool somebody
As I handed this "FauxLex" to a friend who's photographed many Rolexes for his clients, I told him it was a fake. He didn't believe me even as he held it in his hands. I think most Rolex specialists would have to see it up-close, maybe very close, before realizing it's a fake. You'd probably have to go as far as removing the back to be certain. But if you do that, you see an ETA movement inside. Cool!
 
At last! Swiss machinery

Automatic rotor & bearing Highly realistic from all sides.
ETA 2846 Swiss movement with hack second hand, instant-transition date, 21 jewels
Sapphire crystal
Precision stainless case parts & seals, many parts true drop-ins for Rolex
 
It appears that at least one Asian factory is producing replacement parts to fit Rolex, such as backs, bracelets, crowns, and cases. Those same parts from Rolex are prohibitively expensive, so there is a large market for the 2nd party parts. The parts are drop-in replacements by necessity, and often very realistic. After coming up with a few more bits, this factory suddenly has a nearly complete watch. As the final step, a Swiss movement is installed.
A replacement Oyster bracelet can cost hundreds of dollars from Rolex. But there's nothing inherently expensive about these parts, leaving a huge opportunity for the black market.

Shown here: black market bracelet, crown, case, and back.
 
Bracelet link pins are threaded screws.
Movement freezes instantly when crown is pulled out, to hack to time signal.
Dial imprinting is precise, date wheel digits match the unique Submariner font.
All parts fit together nicely: Crown screws down snugly between the two guard lugs. Back is removed with Rolex tool. ETA movement is matched perfectly to case size and locked in place by wing tabs.
They claim crystal is sapphire - it probably is. I witnessed two people vigorously attack it with jewelers screwdrivers, but a microscope shows the crystal to be smooth and glossy.
 
Precision dial imprinting
 
Precise date font matches Rolex style You really can't find a better watch for the money, regardless of the counterfeit issue. But, if it's realism you need, consider the following shortcomings:

Look at the Rolex logo closely - you might notice that the 5 crown points are bundled together - not quite as spread out as for the real logo.

The bezel rotation detents are loose (an internal problem - the bezel itself is visibly well-made). There's a fair amount of backlash in the rachet, while a true Submariner has a tighter bezel with half-minute stops.

A new Submariner has the crown O-ring seal fastened to the outer face of the case's threaded screw-down collar. This fake has the more conventional arrangement of the O-ring attached up inside the crown itself. (Of course, this is not visible except for close inspection with the crown unscrewed.)
 
Getting one
No street vendor has this watch. Don't waste time in Patpong or the Taipei night market. Also, don't buy anything you can't inspect first, such as on the internet. Almost all fake Rolex's are cheap crap. The images floating around the web are usually just pasted from the Rolex catalog (or even stolen from me!)

Anything with a "complicated" movement should be immediately dismissed as complete fakery, such as GMTs or Daytonas - the extra hands are fake! Be persistent and ask around until you find what you want. Obviously, there's no particular brand to look for, so the quality grading is up to you.

It's really hard to find good fakes. Supply is tricky as corporate cash influences governments to crack down on the trade.
 
Lockdown tab - No plastic spacer rings allowed!

Movement and case properly matched


Detail of same image showing ETA stamp
 You should insist that the dealer open the back so you can look at the movement and case construction. Look for the ETA movement and know your Rolex models. Some models look great but aren't accurate copies, such as with the Explorer-2's bezel, which should be engraved but is usually printed.

Reject anything that meets one of the following: Plastic spacer ring around movement, Rolex tool does not fit back, back has common 6-point slots for removal tool [plus other signs]. Use the photos in this web page for comparison.
 



Technical Details
Movement: ETA 2846
Winding: Automatic, winds in both directions.
Jewels: 21
Top crystal: Sapphire, date window lens on top surface
Bracelet: Stainless, incl wet suit extension and Rolex logo in multiple places.
Crown: Screw-down
Back: Stainless, screws down only with Rolex tool.
Thickness: 13.6 mm
Bezel diameter: 39.4 mm
Lug Spacing: 20 mm

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 ETA, Rolex, and the Low-Down on Swiss Movements

For the many people reading this page who haven't seen an automatic watch for a while, here goes...

The advent of quartz watches drove many Swiss manufacturers to the brink. After hundreds of years in business, they were threatened by the new cheap throw-aways, and many manufacturers ceased production. A few survived, and have recently come back to supply the upper end of the watch market. The watches use automatic movements, which are completely mechanical. They are highly complex and built by hand, a tradition of the ages that makes them timeless. Indeed, these movements can last for hundreds of years and continue to operate with more precision than most quartz movements.

To survive in today's competitive world, most manufacturers have adapted to using "ebauche" movements, which are actually made by a larger, specialized factory. The particular watch is then styled and finished at one of many individual shops. Some companies still make their own movements, such as Rolex, but most others use movements from the large ETA. This system allows the manufacturers to focus on the parts of their products that make them visibly unique - the style and marketing angles.

Even Rolex does use some ebauche movements, such as the Zenith El Primero in their Daytona. They also use an ETA movements for the Tudor line, the Valjoux 7750 in the chronographs.