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What is a Watchmaker The term Watchmaker is an old term that goes back to the time when to repair a watch the watchmaker had to actually make the part and sometimes make a complete watch. Early watches were all hand made and the parts from one watch would not necessarily fit another watch even if it was made by the same person. Today modern watch factories make watches that have such close tolerances that parts are interchangeable generally without any adjustments. Today the term watchmaker in the trade refers to one who repairs rather than actually makes a watch. There have been many innovative changes in mechanical watches over the years. However many of the tools that were developed years ago to repair watches are still be used today.
Where Do I Start to Learn to be a Watchmaker?
You basically have two choices. Attend a formal school for big bucks, be away from home for nine months to two years or learn at home by video at your own pace. The Watch Repair Videos take you through the procedures necessary to clean and repair watches. The video camera has enabled me to make this course so simple that even someone who as never seen the insides of a watch, can follow step by step the procedures presented. You will be surprised at how quickly your skills will progress. A pocket watch is used in the video because it is easier to see and you do need to start working on the larger watches to develop your skill handling small parts before going on to wrist or bracelet watches. You will be able to pick up a pocket watch to learn on for 25 to 100 dollars. They are available at NAWCC Marts but you can also try local antique shops. You will often find non-runners for a very reasonable price. Do not try to use a wrist watch while learning as the parts are to small easily damaged and you may become discouraged. www.uhrenwerkzeug.com
Tools of the Trade
Watches have been around for a long time. As a result a great many tools have been developed over the years to repair watches. Some are very specialized and some are hand made. However you will only need very few to start. As you progress you will require additional tools. You can find most of the tools you will need at Marts that are put on by the local chapters of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, check them out under links in the main menu. A Mart is a meeting of a local chapter of the NAWCC. At Marts they will have workshop demonstrations as well as members and vendors selling all sorts of horological supplies including watches and tools both new and used. Great buys on used tools can usually be found at these Marts. Of course tools may also be purchased new at most material houses. The tool you will probably use the most will be your tweezers. There are many different styles and sizes but to start one fine and one regular size should be sufficient. Be sure to buy quality as you will have them for a long time. Dumont and Vigor are good names. I prefer the non-magnetic stainless steel tweezers but the others are fine. You will find that things tend to get magnetized so you will need a demagnetize if you do much work. A magnetized watch will drive you crazy trying to regulate it. There are two kinds of demagnetizers. One requires power while the other one is like a magnet and requires no power. The one that uses no power is by far the least expensive unless you can get a good buy on the plug in type at a mart. Most tools will last for a lifetime. You will find many excellent values in used and new tools at Marts but be sure to inspect them carefully as there is also some real junk sold at Marts. . www.uhrencenter24.de An eye loupe is another necessary tool. They come in various styles, the lease comfortable but by far the cheapest, are the ones that you hold in your eye socket. Headbands types are popular and cost about $10.00. They require a little getting used to. But if you are on a budget the inexpensive held in the eye socket will work just fine. I prefer the double lens style that clip on my glasses. You will also find a loupe is also great for helping you to see small splinters in your fingers and any other fine work you may be doing.
The three tools that you will use the most are your tweezers, your loupe and your screw drivers. It is very important that these three items be the best quality you can afford. These are three tools that it pays to purchase new. Even a good watchmaker cannot work with inferior tools. If you are as enthused with watchmaking as I am you will be using your tools for years to come. Sharp screwdrivers of good quality are essential to quality work. A screwdriver of poor quality will often slip and mar either the screw or the plate an error that is much more costly than having a quality tool. www.uhrenbeweger24.de Another important aspect of watch repairing is to have proper lighting. If possible choose an area that has good lighting to begin with. Then supplement that lighting with an dual bulb fluorescent light. Get the type of light that is on a flexible arm. There are several advantages to using a fluorescent light of this type. It can easily be moved close to your work and generates only a small amount of heat. The adjustable lights that use a standard incandescent bulb are less expensive but can to generate a lot of heat. But once again if on a budget a flexible incandescent light (this can be uncomfortable when working close to the light source) can be purchased at "Office Max" or "Staples" for about $10.00.. Good lighting is essential to being able to see into the insides of the watch while it is assembled. Good lighting is necessary to be able to give the watch a good visual inspection when estimating what may be wrong or adjusting the escapement which is often difficult to see. Nearly all procedures that the watchmaker is required to do require good lighting.
You should get a few catalogs from material houses. These catalogs will have tools and supplies commonly used by watch and clockmakers. These catalogs will show you what is available for tools and give you an idea of their prices. You will then be able to judge the value used tools. One of the more popular ones is put out by S. LaRose, Inc., 3223 Yanceyville St., PO Box 31208, Greensboro, NC 27420. It costs $2.50 just to call up to order it. It will be mailed to you free each year if you order from them. Their phone number is 336 621- 1936. Link to them here S. LaRose, Inc.
Of course a watch like any mechanical device needs to be oiled to run correctly. There are many different types oils and oilers available and they are shown in the videos. The type oiler used most frequently is the flat tip oiler. It has a spade type tip which when dipped in oil collects a drop on the end which is then transferred to the watch by touching the tip to the location to the lubricated. This type of oiler is inexpensive and is the one I prefer to use for general use. The handles are generally color coded according to the size of the tip. Different areas of the watch require different amounts of oil hence the different size tips.
If you plan to clean many watches its much more convenient to use a mechanical watch cleaner. I show you how to clean watches in the videos using a simple jar method and solutions that are economical and readily available. When you have progressed to the point where you want to purchase a mechanical watch cleaner you will find many available at your local NAWCC Marts.
I have only scratched the surface regarding the many types of the common tools used by the watchmaker. Many more tools are shown and their use covered in the video with complete explanations how to use them. Because the watchmakers trade has been around so long there are frequently a number of different tools to perform the same repair. www.sportflugzeug.com
SETTING UP THE WORK AREA
Your work space should be an area that is as free as possible from dust and dirt. The small parts in a watch are very susceptible to dust and dirt. Try to select an area that is well lit. When you are just starting a kitchen table or one of similar height may be OK as you begin but you will soon find that it is too low to work at comfortably for any length of time. A small bench can be added to the top of a regular height table (something like a flat footstool). This is only a temporary measure for those who have limited space. The ideal height of the work area for most people is about 38". This may seem high at first when you sit in a standard chair, but assuming you are of averaged height it is correct. Remember you will often be using a loupe that will have you within inches of your work. It you are fortunate enough to the able to afford a genuine watchmakers bench you will find it makes working much more enjoyable as you have quite a few drawers for convenient storage for your tools and supplies. There is also a unique feature to a watchmakers workbench. It is a small four sided drawer that is in the center of the work area under the bench and slides out like a lower drawer. The sides being only about three-quarters of an inch high but the bottom is generally a cloth type material. This drawer is pulled out into your lap. It's purpose is to catch any small parts that may fall. Trust me you will be dropping small parts. I tell my wife when I'm on the floor on my hands and knees looking for a part "I'm assuming the watchmakers position" this remark will take on new meaning as you are learning. Speaking of falling parts it is important to have a smooth clean floor. It is almost impossible to find small parts that are on a rug. If you must work over a rug I like suggest you put down a large piece of plastic. On my bench I like a mat of the type that is made of flexible plastic designed to the cut on. This type of mat is available in stationery stores and sewing centers and makes a suitable work surface. The color should be as light as possible this makes small parts easier to see. As an alternative you may want to use a piece of glass with a white piece of cloth or paper under it..
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